MusicMakers publishes this harp as paper blueprints written for hand tools: dimensions and angles for most parts, and traced outlines for the curves a builder would follow on a bandsaw. To cut the parts on a CNC router, I rebuilt every component in Fusion 360. Parts with dimensioned geometry I modeled straight from the drawings. For the freeform contours, especially along the neck, I imported scaled sections of the plans as reference images and redrew them with arcs, turning outlines meant to be cut by eye into exact profiles. I then put all the parts together in a digital assembly, which let me check that sizes, angles, and mating faces agreed before any wood was cut.
Before anything went on the CNC, the lumber had to be jointed and planed flat and square, and boards too narrow for a part were glued edge to edge into wider blanks. The router then cut the body, neck, pillar, soundboard, back, base, and structural strips from the model. Hardware holes came from the model too: the CNC located or started them, and I finished them on the drill press. Not everything suited the machine. The neck buildup, an irregular piece above the curved neck that gives it a symmetrical profile, I cut on the bandsaw with a jig.
The model describes a harp with no strings on it, and wood under more than 1,000 lbs of combined tension doesn't keep that shape. The plans leave the pillar's final length to be fitted during assembly, because the neck deflects once it's loaded, so I trimmed the pillar until the neck and pillar lined up. Stringing showed the same effect: as tension rose, the soundboard deflected enough to pull strings I had already tuned back out of tune, and it took several passes before the tuning settled.
The biggest problem came at full tension. The soundboard and its edge strips were glued to the soundbox, and during stringing that joint failed and the soundboard pulled away from the body. I re-glued it with a stronger adhesive and more careful clamping, and it failed again under tension. Since a better glue joint wasn't enough, I changed the joint itself: I added screws so that fasteners, not just adhesive, hold the soundboard against the pull of the strings, and hid the screw heads under wooden plugs. It hasn't separated since.